1. Define wave height. (See p. 16G)
2. Define wave period. (See p. 16G)
3. Define progressive wave. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 12G)
4. Define wave crest. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 4G)
5. Define wave trough. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 16G)
6. Define wavelength. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 16G)
7. Define wave amplitude. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 1G)
8. Define wave frequency. (Also see fig. 11.1 and p. 7G)
9. Do progressive (non-breaking) ocean waves transport water across the ocean surface?
10. Contrast the motions of water molecules with the waveform and energy as a progressive waves passes. (Also see fig. 11.2)
11. Use fig. 11.2 to determine the direction of motion on the a) wave front, b) wave crest, c) wave back, and d) wave trough in relation to the wave propagation direction.
12. Define restoring force. (Also see p. 13G)
13. Give the primary restoring force for most ocean waves. (Also see fig. 11.4)
14. Use fig. 11.4 to determine the generating force for most waves.
15. Use fig. 11.9 to determine how the diameter of a passing wave's orbital motion changes with increasing depth.
16. Use fig. 11.9 to determine the depth of no motion (i.e. wave bottom) for a wave.
17. Define deep-water wave.
18. Describe the shape of a deep-water wave's orbital motion. (See figs. 11.9 and 11.15)
19. Explain why a wave's orbital motion changes after a wave enters water shallower than L/2. (Also see fig. 11.15)
20. Explain how the wave speed changes a wave moves into progressively shallower water.
21. Define intermediate-water wave. (Also see fig. 11.15 and p. 9G)
22. Describe the shape of an intermediate-water wave's orbital motion. (See fig. 11.15)
23. Define shallow-water wave. (Also see fig. 11.15 and p. 14G)
24. Describe the shape of an shallow-water wave's orbital motion. (See fig. 11.15)