1. Give the disturbing force for most ocean waves. (Also see fig. 8.2)
2. Do (non-breaking) waves transport water, i.e. does water travel with the wave energy?
3. Explain why ocean waves are called orbital waves. (Also see fig. 8.3 and p. 528)
4. Define wave crests and troughs. (Also see fig. 8.4, p. 520, and p. 534)
5. Define wave height. (Also see fig. 8.4 and p. 535)
6. Define wavelength. (Also see fig. 8.4 and p. 535)
7. Give the wave steepness formula. (Also see p. 535)
8. Give the average wave steepness when a wave begins to break.
9. Define wave period and give the relationship between period and frequency. (Also see p. 535)
10. How far can ocean waves travel?
11. Use fig. 8.5 to give the motion direction on a wave's front, crest, back, and trough in relation to the direction of wave propagation.
12. Use fig. 8.5 to explain why one can surf the front of a wave, but not the back.
13. Describe the change in water molecules' orbit diameters with increasing depth. (Also see fig. 8.4)
14. Give the depth of wave base. (Also see fig. 8.4 and p. 535)
15. Define deep-water wave. (Also see fig. 8.7 and p. 520)
16. Which wave characteristic determines a deep-water wave's speed?
17. Use fig. 8.8 to give the speeds for a 50 m wave and a 200 m wave in m/s)
18. Define shallow-water wave. (Also see fig. 8.7 and p. 532)
19. Which wave characteristic determines a shallow-water wave's speed?
20. Explain why tsunamis and tides are considered shallow-water waves.
21. Use fig. 8.7 to contrast the orbital shapes for deep-water waves, transitional waves, and shallow-water waves.
22. Define transitional wave. (Also see fig. 8.7 and p. 534)
23. Which wave characteristics determines a transitional wave's speed?
24. Define capillary waves and give their restoring force. (See fig. 8.9 and p. 518)
25. Define gravity waves and give their restoring force. (See fig. 8.9 and p. 523)